Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal | Gérald Genta

Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal watch in 18k yellow gold with fire opal bezel and orange carnelian dial – Photography courtesy of Swisswatches.

Inspiration from the Sea

Born from one of Gérald Genta’s iconic sketches in 1994—spiky sea urchins observed during a Corsican getaway—the Oursin (“sea urchin” in French) design returns with renewed brilliance in the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal.

Encased in 3N 18k yellow gold, the 36.5 mm case features a distinctive matte, glass-blasted finish. Its surrounding bezel is encrusted with 137 individually screwed Mexican fire opals, each affixed by its own gold pin—creating a radiance reminiscent of coral or caviar glistening with color. The design is sealed beneath a richly faceted sapphire crystal shaped in Genta’s signature octagonal motif.

The dial, crafted from vibrant orange carnelian, echoes the warmth of the fire opals and shines against the frosted case. Applied gold dots mark the five-minute intervals, while gold hands, enhanced with luminous inlays, ensure that the display remains readable beneath the interplay of light and gems.

Beneath its gem-laden surface beats the GG‑005 automatic movement, derived from the Zenith Elite base caliber. Its 50-hour power reserve, 4 Hz frequency, and elegantly engineered octagonal 18k gold rotor, embellished with matching studs, signal thoughtful integration of mechanics and artistry.

Artistic Director Matthieu Hegi framed this model as a daring tribute to Genta’s affinity for vivid stones and natural spectacles. Gérald Genta’s wife, Evelyne, echoed the sentiment—describing the new Oursin as a recall of his fascination with how light transforms the stones he adored.

Photography courtesy of Gérald Genta via Watches by SJX, Swisswatches Magazine, and Hodinkee.

— Gem Exploring Editorial

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