Spinelli di Fuoco necklace | Pomellato
Unveiled as part of Pomellato’s 2024 high jewellery collection The Dualism of Milan, the Spinelli di Fuoco necklace stands as one of the maison’s most daring creations. Designed as a plastron — a bold collar-like form — the piece reflects both strength and sensuality, capturing the spirit of Milan in a single jewel.
Gemstones
The necklace is set with 238 spinel cabochons, totaling 365 carats, arranged in an impressive spectrum of fiery tones. Scarlet, amber, violet, and deep cherry hues appear in sequence, each stone carefully selected for saturation and harmony.
Spinel, historically prized yet often overshadowed by ruby, is celebrated here on its own terms. The sheer scale of 238 cabochons reaffirms Pomellato’s commitment to pushing boundaries in gemstone artistry.
Craftsmanship
Every spinel is mounted in custom closed or prong settings, designed to protect the gem while allowing subtle movement that brings the necklace to life when worn. The settings are fashioned in rose gold, their warmth enhancing the vivid tones of the spinels, while diamond accents add contrast and brilliance.
The technical challenge lies in ensuring fluidity across such a wide surface without compromising stability. This feat required meticulous work in Pomellato’s Milanese ateliers, where artisans combined precision engineering with traditional hand craftsmanship.
Inspiration
The collection theme, Dualism of Milan, celebrates a city that thrives on contrast: architectural rigor and artistic freedom, history and innovation, restraint and audacity.
The Spinelli di Fuoco captures this dualism in its very form — an architectural plastron softened by organic color transitions. Structured geometry meets the expressive vibrancy of fire-hued spinel, a jewel both modern and timeless.
With the Spinelli di Fuoco necklace, Pomellato redefines its place in the high jewellery landscape. It is not merely a necklace of significant carat weight, but a statement of design philosophy — one that values color, movement, and daring proportions as much as gemstone rarity.
Photography to be confirmed by Pomellato.
Gem Exploring Editorial.
